Whitley's BBQ

There's a long stretch of road between Kinston, North Carolina
and Williamsburg, Virgina, most of it's a piece of 2 lane highway
called Highway 11. Traveling on highway 11 can get predictable,
every 15 miles or so the next town comes into view. The houses
get closer together, then you see a colorful box building with signs
promoting it's national or regional brand, some I've heard of others
are new to me. The colors change but the message is the same as
they promote cheap, mass produced food. Some even offer to wash
your car while you eat, that's a new one but not what I'm interested
in.

After about 2 hours I was starting to nod, the glory of farm fields
dressed in clover was waning. Not that interested in the next falling
down barn on the side of the road anymore either (as I had been earlier
in the drive). All I really wanted was a good reason to stop for something
hot and hand crafted. A good shot of caffeine and maybe a little sugar
at the end of the meal, just enough to carry me on, into the night towards
Williamsburg.

That's when I saw the signs on the side of the road in the middle of
no where, about 2 miles south of Murfreesboro, "Come on in Y'all" &
another one that said "Great Home Cookin'". I drove past so fast it
took a minute to slow down and turn around, no problem as it wasn't
rush hour yet. There were enough cars in the parking lot to suggest
they were open, not enough to cause concern that they'd be too busy
to chat.

For the second time that day I found myself in the warm embrace of
true Southern Hospitality. Stepping into the first dining room at Whitley's
is like returning to Grandma's house. The lighting is just a bit yellow,
the floors spic and span clean, the owner Dan Hunt smiling as his walked
through the kitchen door. With a wave and a nod he suggested I settle into
 table in the main dining room which has a pond view out back, "we're in
between lunch and dinner but the buffets on and I'll give you the early bird
price" he said with enthusiasm.

In short time I was settled in, Dan and his staff took great care of me.
They allowed me to photograph the buffet while a handsome BBQ
sandwich was prepared in the kitchen. Walking around the room I
took notice of the wonderful variety of hot items, roasted chicken,
braised cabbage, caramelized acorn squash stemming fresh from the
oven as well as a variety of starters like fruit filled jello mold and
deviled eggs on a welcoming table in front of the line.

Dan Hunt is a proud man and he should be, his restaurant Whitley's
on Highway 11 is an American showplace. The BBQ was precisely
what I had asked for, a snack that would allow room for dinner 3
hours later. North Carolina pork BBQ is light, no smoke here just a
soft porky texture finished with red pepper, salt and vinegar. Dan
sent out a monkey dish of home pickled cucumbers and onions with
a slice of sweet potato pie on another plate to the side. Both as if
someones grandmother had made them in anticipation of a special visit.

I'm told that Whitley's has been around for about 50 years. It's first
owners, Mr. Robert Whitley and then his daughter Ruth took great care
to build an honest business that serves the community first. With 2 large
dining rooms it certainly can satisfy the crowds that show up after
church on Sunday. With the "Pigs Tailgate Specials" they are ready
to help you entertain at home too. Priced so moderately I couldn't
resist ordering a "combo"of the incredible fried chicken and the bill
still only came to $14.00.

As I drove north toward Williamsburg my car filled with the mouthwatering
aroma on home cookin'. By the time i reached the ferry to Jamestown I
couldn't stand it anymore and dug into that bag for a wing and a leg.
If you stop in to visit Dan please give him my best wishes and ask for
a combo to go too. You won't regret it for a second.

Chef & The Farmer

When it comes to plating food from familiar sources some chefs
talk about it, some can fake it with locally recognized suppliers
that they might recognize but don't really know but only a few
can actually pull it off.

After my father told me about Vivian and Ben at Chef & The Farmer
in Kinston, North Carolina story boards flashed through my
mind like a bed time tale. Vivian's father, John Howard is a hog farmer
with significant acreage just outside of Kinston, her friend/ advisor
Ray Collier raises hogs in North Carolina too. After I arrived at
Chef & The Farmer this morning for an introductory chat, Warren Brothers
a Kinston farmer walked in to discuss the afternoon's vegetable harvest.
He wanted to know if they'd like flowers too.

The play's been written as I imagined it, the stage is set with tables
and chairs crafted from local pine, Kinston natives staff the kitchen,
the lighting's just right, Vivian Howard is the real deal. Vivian's husband
Ben makes the circle complete as he shares a calming sensibility. Ben's
the in house artist/ business man, walking tall, wearing the soft glove
with a firm hand.

As we toured about the restaurants dining rooms (3), kitchen spaces (3)
and wine shop, I was amazed. This young couple has experienced the joy
of designing and launching a dream restaurant. If the odds were against
them on the front end of their project, it looks like the tide has turned.
After 5 years of dedicated service the Chef &The Framer team is in place,
tables are active. The actors are hitting their marks, reciting lines on que
and reaching for the stars.

A review of the menu hardly makes it clear but each item comes
from a member of the community that quietly benefit from Vivan
and Ben's talent. Butterbean Hummus and pickled vegetables can
be sourced directly to Warren and the pita they share a plate with is
prepared from scratch in the open kitchen daily, I tried it and all is
fantastic. The Farmer's Wedge comes finished with Neuske's bacon,
ask a server about Neuske and there's sure to be a story.

Not to say that this restaurant has made life easier for the community,
life in the fields of North Carolina is honest and clean but no single
restaurant is going to make it easier. What this restaurant does do is
share a view, through new eyes that have a passion to do it a little
differently. With dignity and grace, day in and day out. If you visit
central North Carolina, don't drive past with out stopping in.
The Chef and The Farmer will make it time well spent.

The Ahwahnee Lodge, Yosemite

Classic digs for world travelers. The Awhawanee offers

a true American lodge experience shadowed by Yosemite National

Parks' grand Dame the  Half Dome. I'm not a climber but loved the

hiking and my 1/2 day at Badger pass on a snowshoe tour with

Ranger Dick, a 25 year veteran of the Yosemite Park Ranger team.



The Ahwannee has a unique  design that's worth exploring if you visit,

built in the 20's the lodge has a magical grace in every room, especially

the public gathering rooms including the main dining room which seats 300.

The kitchen provides well rounded menus featuring a variety of wild game

and organic ingredients from the California farms just outside the parks gate.


On one occasion i enjoyed a pasta with braised boar, broccoli rabe and salsify.

They also offer a month long program called "Chef Holidays" which hosts

visiting chefs from all over the country,  This promotion is designed to show off

The Ahwahnee Lodges' fine culinary team under the daily direction of a variety

of talented chefs.  On this visit, I was here to present a breakfast menu, followed

by a gnocci recipe from Menlo Parks talented chef Jessie Cool of the Flea st. Cafe

and a main, 5 course Italian inspired dinner from Michael Tusk of Quince in

San Francisco.


If your looking for a well rounded adventure to one of Americas great National Parks.

A visit to the Ahwahnee should be high on the list.

Oasis, biscuts & gravy

Driving from Oakland to Yosemite offers Americana views.
First you see foot hills covered with windmills, huge windmills
laid across the landscape like rows of corn. Then, 100 miles
to the east you see forests of nut trees, again planted in rows for
organized production.

Not a great deal of options for breakfast. I saw a few spots but
drove on looking for something unique. Finally, as I entered the
foothills it seemed the choices had run out. The Oasis came into view
as I drove round the bend so I grabbed the chance for breakfast
at the counter. The world needs places like this. With nice ladies,
happy to cook for the regular from the dirt road cabin off 140,
or the odd traveler like me, interested in seeing whats inside.

It was like stepping into 1965 when I entered the door at The Oasis.
The counter to the right, a plastic display case ready to show off
4 slices of pie sat empty at the end. The room was occupied by
me and one other man at a table in the corner, busy reading
a pile of papers through a strange set of magnifying glasses.
 I ordered a cup of coffee and 2 over easy with what the menu
called 1/4 order biscuts and gravy. It was the biscuts I'll remember,
I'm sure she made them this morning. The gravy was standard, heavy
and filling, as it should be. The coffee was hot, that's about it.

The experience, priceless.

Shutters on the Beach, Santa Monica

The perfect answer to the age old question "What to do on New Years?".
Three nights at Shutters On The Beach in Santa Monica.
My favorite meal was around the Corner at Cafe Cora. The tiny
spot is fast, clean and efficent in the LA way, cool and contemperary.
Fresh citrus juice, good hot coffee and ranch eggs. 12 seats inside
and another 30 under a tent.

We also enjoyed a few dinners at Coastal in the Shutters complex.
Best dish here was a Rigatoni Ragout. The space is well designed
for the ample crowd that rolls through it, just off the beach. They also
offer a wonderful vegetable breakfast skillet in a spicy tomato sauce
with eggplant, topped with eggs and an herbed goat cheese crouton.

Finally, the lemonade at Dog Stick, just off the Santa Monica peir.
Pass on the dog but refresh w. the Lemonade, really darn good.